? HI, 墨
M
2022.05
vol.09
Fashion
extraordinary
目錄CONTENTS
1
彩墨品牌
ink brand?
2
墨水風向標
?Ink wind vane
3
墨水與藝術
ink and art
4
墨水測評
ink evaluation?
5
傳統植物染
traditional plant dying
6
文具探店
stationary? explore
NOODLER'S鯰魚
鯰魚墨水如雷貫耳，除了它名字罕見，更多是因為他顏色豐富、價格低廉、還有鯰魚老板兼所有墨水的開發人內森·塔迪夫（Nathan Tardif）親自設計的墨水瓶上標簽紙及其承載的政治信念。這個品牌的名字Noodler’s和鯰魚標志都是源自空手潛水捕捉鯰魚的活動。
? ? ? ? 塔迪夫崇尚空手潛水捕捉鯰魚中體現出的平均主義，因為那時不論是金錢還是關系都不能在水下給你帶來任何優勢。于是，他也把平均主義的概念帶入鯰魚墨水的產品的各方各面。為了配制出更多的人用得起的墨水，他堅持一切墨水原料盡量當地購買，價格也在不賠錢的情況下盡可能低。
Tardiff admires the egalitarianism embodied in catching catfish by diving empty-handed, when neither money nor connections can give you any advantage underwater. So he brought the concept of egalitarianism to all aspects of his catfish ink products as well. In order to formulate inks that are affordable to as many people as possible, he insists that all ink ingredients be purchased as locally as possible, and at the lowest possible price without losing money.
Catfish ink is familiar, not only because of its rare name, but also because of its rich colors, low price, and the label on the bottle designed by NATHAN TARDIF, the owner of Catfish and developer of all the inks, and the political beliefs it carries. The brand's name, NOODLER'S, and the catfish logo are both derived from the activity of diving empty-handed to catch catfish.
sailor寫樂顏料墨水
墨水風向標? ? ?ink? wind vane
雨聲系列鋼筆墨水
penonia
robert oster
藍儂道具屋
顏色鮮艷的顏料墨水“storia”更新。能享受混色了。因為有8種顏色，1:1比例的情況下可以享受64種組合。實際上如果改變比例，加上專用的淡定液(含稅1,100日元)等，是隱藏著數不清的樂趣的墨水。因為不能和以前的sailor混色，所以需要注意。20ml·87rmb
紅色
橙色
綠色
黃綠色
紫色
粉紅色
黃色
藍色
日本櫻花系列/日本櫻花系列
繼2020年發售的SHIKIORI -四季織一雨聲系列鋼筆之后，墨水登場了。鋼筆是以雨的名稱來命名的，而墨水則是以聯想到雨的擬聲詞來命名的。通過季節變化的草木的姿態，以及雨和雨后的印象的色彩，描繪出略帶刺鼻的淡色。
·20ml·56RMB? ?墨盒:3瓶·含稅20RMB
來來來
忐忑不安
孤零零
瀟瀟
金線液變得更容易使用了
penonia的墨水專用金線液被改良了。粘性極低，非常容易書寫。在容量不變的前提下，容器也要變小巧，使用起來更方便。
金線液·全23色·金線15g· 93RMB
追加了6種新顏色。
來自匈牙利的墨水品牌penonia的新顏色登場。明亮生動的6種顏色。可以用另外出售的專用金線液制作原創的環保墨水。瓶身采用了新包裝，容量為60ml。染料·60ml·133RMB
阿比蓋爾
丹第獅
藍調布魯斯
天鵝絨香檳
帕迪娜
黑鷹
澳大利亞金眼墨水系列第九彈
羅伯特·奧斯特
澳大利亞的羅伯特·奧斯特的墨水系列第9彈，6種顏色全部是金線墨水。根據豐富的金線量，非常華麗的彩色是魅力。其中，“nofix地址”的藍色金線在紅色墨水上閃耀，給人留下了強烈的印象。
染料·50ml·220RMB
銀環
水晶馬林
格林吉爾特
施瓦茨玫瑰
藍絲絨風暴
門裙
讓人想起溫暖冬天的限定墨水
冬令進補/冬令進補/冬令進補
冬林珍芙是臺灣的燉煮料理，在寒冷的冬天溫暖身體的風物詩。以那個材料為主題的2022年冬季限定墨水4色登場。是稍微淡和善的色調。
染料·30ml·144RMB
《客中作》 唐? ?李白
蘭陵美酒郁金香，
玉碗盛來琥珀光。
但使主人能醉客，
不知何處是他鄉。
墨水與藝術ink and art
? ? ? ? ?The Guest in lanling? ? ?Tang. Li Bai
? ?The wine of Lanling smells like lush gold.
? ? The jade bowl is filled with amber light.
? ? But if the host can make the guest drunk
? ?I don't know where is the other country.
墨水與藝術ink? and art
待到秋來九月八，我花開后百花殺。沖天香陣透長安，滿城盡帶黃金甲
In terms of the film's title, "A City Full of Golden Armor", this line is taken from the last line of Huang Chao's "Fugue Chrysanthemum After No First".This movie gives us an audio-visual feast to enjoy. Golden glaze, openwork carved corridors, golden uniform costumes, ornaments, headdresses, gorgeous carpets ......, warm-toned items are extremely luxurious, but it is through such exaggeration that the film allows the viewer to truly feel the extravagance and prosperity. In fact, beneath the surface of opulence, full of dirt, mother and son fornication, husband and wife rebellion, brother mutilation, everything is carried out under the magnificent appearance.What is tragedy? As Lu Xun said: tragedy is the destruction of beautiful things for people to see.All the beauty is destroyed in the Great War of the Chrysanthemum Festival, from vividness to death, from integrity to brokenness, and from yellow chrysanthemums all over the ground, with very layered and conflicting colors. The war is over, a very short period of time, thousands of yellow chrysanthemums a pot repositioned on the countertop, bright and heavy carpet was replaced with a new one, the war left a full step of the stinging blood was washed clean. Everything has regained its prosperous and graceful skin.?The chrysanthemum is broken, full of wounds.
? ? ? ? ?從影片名字來說，《滿城盡帶黃金甲》，這一句取自黃巢的《不第后賦菊》的最后一句。
這部電影給我們享受了一場視聽盛宴。黃金的琉璃，鏤雕的走廊，金色統一的服飾，擺設，頭飾，華麗的地毯……，暖色調的物品極盡奢華，但是影片正是通過這樣的夸張，讓看客們真切地感受到奢靡與繁榮。事實上，在富麗堂皇的表面之下，滿是污垢，母子私通、夫妻反目、兄弟相殘，一切都在華麗的外表之下進行著。
什么是悲劇呢，正如魯迅所說的：悲劇就是把美好的東西毀滅給人看。
重陽節大戰，所有的美好全部毀滅，鮮活到死亡，完整到破碎，滿地黃菊，色彩極具層次且具有沖突。大戰結束，極短的時間內，成千上萬的黃菊一盆盆重新擺在了臺面上，明艷繁重的地毯又被換上了新的，大戰留下的滿臺階的刺目的鮮血被沖刷得干干凈凈。一切又恢復了繁華雍容的面皮。
菊花殘，滿地傷。
《滿城盡帶黃金甲》
墨水與藝術ink? and art
《Remember the Time》是Michael Jackson的一支單曲。Michael的嗓音在這首歌中尤其性感迷人，就像這首歌的MV中他優雅華美的古埃及風情裝扮那樣，讓人興奮而吃驚。Michael擅長的口技在這首歌中展現得十分充分，甚至在演唱唱詞時直接用口技作伴奏，在展現絕妙的唱功之時，Michael迷人的嗓音也讓人如醉如癡Michael Jackson在劇中扮演一個博得郁郁寡歡的埃及王妃Nefertiti芳心并因此激怒法老惹來殺身之禍的魔術師。 “變身”特技再一次出色的運用，Michael Jackson的以金色細沙中褪現最終又變成金色細沙隨風而逝。舞蹈部分也相當不錯。整個音樂錄影中， Michael 看起來似乎比其他舞者努力10倍——當然他也要負責所有的演唱部分。
I Know 我明白That You Want To Try Me 你在想我Every Time You See It 每時每刻都能浮現眼前Do You Remember 你可曾記得When We Fell In Love 當年我們墜入愛河We Were Young and Innocent Then 我們都還年少而天真無過Do You Remember 你可曾記得How It All Began 這一切是怎樣開始的It Just Seemed Like Heaven 感覺美妙如同天國So Why Did It End? 可它卻已終結，這是為何？
Michael's voice is particularly sensual in this song, as is his elegant and flamboyant ancient Egyptian costume in the video for the song, which is exciting and surprising. Michael Jackson plays the role of a magician who wins the heart of the depressed Egyptian princess Nefertiti and thus angers the pharaoh and brings about his death. "Transformation" stunt once again excellent use, Michael Jackson's to the golden sand in the fade eventually turned into golden sand with the wind and gone. The dance part is also quite good. Throughout the music video, Michael seems to be working 10 times harder than the other dancers - and of course he's responsible for all the singing parts.
《remember that time》
墨水與藝術?ink and art
? ? ?1930年推出，富麗堂皇，號稱世界上最昂貴的香水。盡管那時正是世界大蕭條的背景。JOY卻是“世界上成本之最貴”的香水，僅30毫升的香水，就需要至少10000朵茉莉和28打玫瑰，取名“JOY”，就是希望成為晦暗日子里的一抹亮色。JOY初味的流溢，保加利亞玫瑰和格拉斯五月玫瑰及茉莉組合而產生的芬芳，鮮艷而絢麗；
Launched in 1930, JOY was the most expensive perfume in the world. Despite the background of the Great Depression, JOY was the "world's most expensive" perfume, requiring at least 10,000 jasmine and 28 dozen roses for just 30 ml of perfume, named "JOY" in the hope of being a bright spot in a dark day. The overflow of the first taste of JOY, the fragrance of Bulgarian rose and the combination of May rose and jasmine from Grasse, is bright and gorgeous.
JOY瓶身設計是當時建筑和內部裝潢設計師Louis Süe的得意之作。他嚴格遵循了古希臘建筑“黃金分割”準則，使整個瓶身看似簡單，卻隱隱透出高貴典雅的大器。而JOY瓶蓋上密封的結全都是用金線全手工精心打就而成。法國首席水晶制造商巴卡萊特公司(Baccarat)更在1974年特別為JOY訂做了一款水晶瓶身，這款精致的多面水晶瓶有著裙襯般的優美線條，每一瓶上都有手工刻制的編號作為限量銷售的標志。
The design of the JOY bottle was the brainchild of Louis Süe, an architect and interior decorator of the time. He strictly adhered to the "golden rule" of ancient Greek architecture, so that the entire bottle looks simple, but hidden elegance of a large tool. The sealed knots on the JOY cap are all carefully hand-tied with gold wire. In 1974, Baccarat, the leading crystal manufacturer in France, made a special crystal bottle for JOY, an exquisite multi-faceted crystal bottle with skirt-like lines and a hand-engraved number on each bottle as a limited edition mark.
墨水測評 ink eveluation?
? ? ? ?從《唐六典》關于諸道貢賦記載,就可知諸道織綾局生產了千百種色彩華美的綾羅錦緞、毛織物和百余種植物纖維加工精織的紡織品。在唐朝亦設有“染院”,專司染色工作。在皇宮內的建筑中,也有一個專給染色用的“暴室”,位于未央宮的西北處。當時官服也嚴密的規定,三品以上是穿紫色,四品、五品穿紅色,六品、七品穿綠色,七品以下穿青色。這些色彩的服裝是專供官方使用,一般百姓是不可以使用的。皇帝的黃色是以柘木(一說是黃櫨)所染成的。黃色在五行中是屬于中間的象征色彩、中間對中國人而言，是最尊貴的位置。以后逐漸變成了皇帝的專用色彩。在實際證物方面,從新疆吐魯番古墓出土的許多織物中可以發現,隋唐時期已經出現印染的染色技巧，色彩也有20多種。所用的染料大致上是以植物性染料為主。
From the "Tang Six Classics" about the tribute of the provinces, it is clear that the weaving bureau of the provinces produced thousands of colorful damask, brocade, woolen fabrics and more than a hundred kinds of plant fiber processing finely woven textiles. In the Tang Dynasty, there was also a "dyeing institute", specializing in dyeing work. In the palace building, there was also a "storm room" dedicated to dyeing, located in the northwest of Weiyang Palace. At that time, there were also strict rules for official uniforms: purple was worn above the third rank, red for the fourth and fifth ranks, green for the sixth and seventh ranks, and cyan for the seventh rank and below. These colors of clothing is exclusively for official use, the general public is not allowed to use. The emperor's yellow is dyed with cudgel (said to be sumac). Yellow in the five elements is the middle of the symbolic color, the middle for the Chinese, is the most honored position. Later, it gradually became the exclusive color of the emperor. In terms of actual evidence, from many fabrics unearthed in the ancient tombs of Tulufan in Xinjiang, it can be found that the dyeing techniques of printing and dyeing already appeared in the Sui and Tang dynasties, and there are more than 20 kinds of colors. The dyes used were generally vegetable-based dyes.
傳統植物染??
唐宋元時期
Tang, Song and Yuan Dynasties
唐代染院dyeing institute
蘇繡? ?Su embroidery
卷云紋? Curly cloud pattern
粵繡Cantonese embroidery
蜀繡 shu embroidery
楚繡? ?chu? embroidery
傳統植物染
? ? ? ?根據《唐六典》第22卷的記載,唐代的染色工坊有六處、分別專門染青、絳、黃、白、皂、紫。由此更可看出唐代的染色已經達到了相當的規模。《唐六典》第22卷里,也有：“凡染，大抵以草木而成，有以花葉，有以莖實，有以根皮。出有方土，采以時月。”
? ? ? 唐代的印染技術全面發展而且成就斐然,這時的絞纈、夾纈、蠟纈都出現了驚人之作，套染、多重色彩的套印、手繪都開始發展。除纈的數量、質量有所提高外,還出現了一些新的印染工藝，如凸版拓印、用堿作為拔染劑印花;用膠粉漿作為防染劑印花,還有用鏤空紙板印成的大族折枝兩色印花羅。唐代的粉漿鏤空版防染印花法,無疑曾接受了新疆地區兄弟民族的經驗。這種印染品宋代叫“藥斑布”,唯其版模更精細，調漿技術也有改進,這就是“灰纈”。在甘肅教煌出土了唐代用凸版拓印的團果對禽紋絹，這是自東漢以后隱沒了的凸版印花技術的再現。代表這個時期印染技術的紡織物如圖1-6-圖1-10所示。
According to the 22nd volume of the Tang Six Classics, there were six dyeing workshops in the Tang Dynasty, specializing in dyeing green, vivid, yellow, white, soap and purple. This shows that dyeing in the Tang Dynasty had reached a considerable scale. In the Tang Six Classics, volume 22, there is also: "Where dyeing, by and large, made of grasses and trees, some with flowers and leaves, some with stems, some with roots and skins. Out of a square of soil, picked to time and month."
? ? ? Tang dynasty printing and dyeing technology development and achievement, this time the twisted val, folder val, wax val have appeared amazing work, set of dyeing, multiple color overprint, hand-painted are beginning to develop. In addition to the number of val, quality has improved, but also appeared some new printing and dyeing process, such as letterpress topography, with alkali as dyeing agent printing; with rubber powder paste as dyeing agent printing, and with hollow cardboard printed into the big family folded two-color printing Luo. Tang dynasty powder paste openwork version of the anti-dye printing method, no doubt has accepted the experience of brotherly peoples in the Xinjiang region. This kind of printing and dyeing products called "medicine spot cloth" in the Song Dynasty, only its version of the mold is more fine, adjust the slurry technology has also improved, which is "gray val". In Gansu taught Huang unearthed the Tang Dynasty with a letterpress topography of the group of fruit on the bird pattern silk, which is since the Eastern Han Dynasty after the reappearance of the letterpress printing technology disappeared. Representing this period of printing and dyeing technology of the textile as shown in Figure 1-6 - Figure 1-10.
云錦
楚錦
蜀錦
宋錦
? ? ?盛唐時期，夾纈印花的作品圖案纖細流暢,又有連續紋樣，已不是上述技術所能實現的。據專家推測，這時已能直接用油漆之類作為隔離層，把紋樣圖案描繪在紗羅上,因此線條細密，圖案輪廓清晰，紋樣也可以連續。這種工藝可稱為“篩羅花版”，或簡稱“羅版”。這種設想已為模擬試驗所證實。唐代詩人白居易有“合羅排勘纈”。“排勘纈”的全面是依次移動兩頁羅花版，版版銜接，印出美麗的彩色花紋圖案。這句詩,正是對當時夾纈印花的描述。夾纈也有染兩三種顏色的。現在日本京都市正倉院還保藏著我國唐代制作的夾纈和蠟纈的山水，鹿草木，鳥木石、象紋等的屏風,已屬藝術珍品。
? ??
During the Tang Dynasty, the pattern of the work of valleys printing is slim and smooth, and there is a continuous pattern, which is not achieved by the above technology. According to expert speculation, this time has been able to directly use paint and so on as isolation layer, the pattern pattern is depicted on the sarong, so the line is fine, pattern outline is clear, pattern can also be continuous. This process can be called "sieve Luo flower version", or simply "Luo version". This idea has been confirmed by the simulation test. Tang dynasty poet Bai Juyi has "together Luo row Kan Val". The "row of Kan val" comprehensive is in order to move two pages of Luohua plate, plate and plate articulation, printed out beautiful color pattern pattern. This line of poetry, is the description of the time clip val printing. There are also two or three colors of valerian dyeing. Now Japan's Kyoto City, Shokura Institute also has a collection of China's Tang dynasty production of valer and wax valer of landscape, deer grass wood, bird wood stone, elephant pattern screen, etc., has been a treasure of art.
傳統植物染
? ? ?到宋朝時期，我國的印染技術已經比較全面，色譜也較齊備。明代人方以智的《通雅)記載，宋代仁宗時，京師染紫十分講究,先染青藍色,再以紫草或紅花套染,得到“油紫”,即深藕荷色,非常漂亮。同時金代時染得的紫色則更為艷麗。
? ? ?對于元朝時期的印染技術,明代楊慎在《丹鉛總錄》中說:“元時染工有夾纈之名,別有檀纈、蜀纈、漿水纈、三套纈、綠絲斑纈之名”。名目雖多,但印染技法仍不出以上范圍。
? ? ? ?During the Song Dynasty, China's printing and dyeing technology was more comprehensive, and the chromatography was more complete. According to the Ming Dynasty's Fang Yizhi's "Tong Ya", when the Song Dynasty's Emperor Renzong, the capital dyed purple with great care, first dyed greenish blue, then dyed with comfrey or red flowers, to get "oil purple", that is, deep lotus color, very beautiful. At the same time, the purple dyed in the Jin Dynasty was more colorful.
? ? ?For the yuan dynasty period printing and dyeing technology, the ming dynasty Yang Shen in the "DanLing general record" said: "yuan time dyeing workers have the name of the folder val, and have sandalwood val, Shu val, paste water val, three sets of val, green silk spot val of the name". Although there are many names, but the printing and dyeing techniques are still not the above range.
傳統植物染
狀花緞? flower-like satin??
狀花緞? flower-like satin??
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